For anyone else submitting to the Journal of Phycology, here's my hack.

In the .dbj file, for the <<AMPERSAND selection, I chose the varand, or \BIBand option:
CODE: SELECT ALL  •  OPEN IN ONLINE LATEX EDITOR%<<AMPERSAND:
%  %:(def) Use word 'and' in author lists
%  amper,%. User ampersand in place of 'and'
varand,% Use \BIBand in place of 'and'

In the preamble:
CODE: SELECT ALL  •  OPEN IN ONLINE LATEX EDITOR\providecommand{\BIBand}{and}which sets all the in-text citations to 'and.' 
Just before the bibliography:
CODE: SELECT ALL  •  OPEN IN ONLINE LATEX EDITOR\renewcommand{\BIBand}{\&}to get a '&' in the references.

If you have multiple chapters with their own reference sections, useCODE: SELECT ALL  •  OPEN IN ONLINE LATEX EDITOR\renewcommand(\BIBand){}again to alternate between 'and' or '&'.

There must be a more elegant solution, and I love to hear more ideas.