This project, if I were to do it, would hopefully improve a paper trimmer's ability to deliver consistent, precise cuts to specific measurements.
I developed the urge to do this project after using my existing paper trimmer in the making of my postcards, which came out about the right size but with some variation. I think having hard stops rather than just grid lines might help solve the variation problem.
I don't really have the time or the severity of need to do this project, but it would be nice, so my brain has been hung up on it and I've been researching the heck out of it despite my conscious preference to not do the project.
Hopefully braindumping into this document will be the final step and I won't have to think about it again, at least until the next time I'm unhappy with what comes out of my paper trimmer.
When you use a paper trimmer to cut paper, you're either following crop marks or similar markings or you're cutting to specified measurements. (Often both, once you've lopped all the crop marks off and have only the last edge to go.) Paper trimmers typically provide a plane marked with a grid in half-inches or something, for you to measure the desired dimensions behind the blade.
This project is to add the option to set hard stops to make the grid lines more than mere suggestions.
On a wooden paper trimmer, drill holes at the southwest corner of each intersection of grid lines:
│
────┼──
O│
│
The circumference of each hole should just touch the adjoining grid lines.
Each hole is then a receptacle for a metal dowel pin. At least two dowel pins, one or more along the left measurement and one or more along the bottom (together with the upper edge), form a fence against which paper can be squared up. The left edge in particular would be vital for precise, repeatable cuts.
Consistent high precision in positioning the holes would be crucial. A pin that's too far left (or down) could be a non-contributing outlier in a fence made of multiple pins. Worse, a pin that's too far right (or up) obtrudes into where the paper is supposed to be.
- Practice pieces
- These “DIY plaques” from Dollar Tree, probably: https://www.dollartree.com/wooden-diy-plaques-35x5625x05-in/300696
- or scrap wood of appropriate thickness if I can scrounge it
- Paper trimmer, wooden
- Swingline Ingento: https://www.swingline.com/p/trimmers/guillotine-trimmers/classiccut-ingento-guillotine-trimmers/
- Probably the best option. I might be able to disassemble it (the ruler, at least, looks removable) and work on the base unobstructed.
- Engraved grid lines mean I could 3D-print a custom drill guide that slots into the grooves
- Downside: It costs a hundred fucking dollars from Dick Blick.
- Westcott TrimAir: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0058TW286/
- Much cheaper ($50)
- Comes with a centimetric grid on the plane! Not that I'm going to drill holes for it. (Unless I did 1/16-inch holes for the centimeters? Hmm.)
- Printed (not engraved) grid
- Downside: Not disassemblable as far as I can tell, so I'm not sure how close I could get to the upper edge.
- X-Acto Heavy Duty: https://smile.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Heavy-Trimmer-26312/dp/B0006HVQGY
- Also cheaper ($60)
- Not sure how useful that sliding stop and its groove would be
- Excessive plastic exterior surrounding the wood
- Printed grid
- Downside: Not disassembleable as far as I can tell, and even more obnoxious of an upper portion than the Westcott
- Swingline Ingento: https://www.swingline.com/p/trimmers/guillotine-trimmers/classiccut-ingento-guillotine-trimmers/
- 1/8-inch-diameter dowel pins: https://www.mcmaster.com/dowel-pins/dowel-pins-7/length~3-4-2/diameter~1-8/length~1/
- Not really sure what length I want. Probably an inch?
- More depth minimizes wobble
- I don't want to drill the hole too deep, lest it go through—pins need to rest in the holes
- Also the pins need to stick up above the plane, partly to be the fence against the paper, but also so I can pull the pins out by hand
- The thickness of the paper cutter's grid plane is a factor; I think it's about half an inch on the Ingento, which means I'd want to go down like 3/8 or 7/16 of an inch in order to get as deep as possible without going through.
- 2023 update: It's 3/4 inch, so I could theoretically get 1-inch pins and let them sit 4/8 to 5/8-inch down.
- Drill bit:
- I have a 1/8-inch drill bit from Ikea already, but it's cheap shit and may not be sufficient or may not last for all the holes required.
- If I choose to upgrade, maybe this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-SpeedLoad-Titanium-4-Piece-Hex-Shank-Pilot-Drill-Bit-Set-AR1859G/205193139
I have a 1.5mm drill bit from Daiso already. The McMaster-Carr listing notes that a smaller-than-1/8-inch hole may be warranted, so I may actually be better off with 1.5mm holes.This would need to be judged by experiment (most likely by using both cheap-shit drill bits on scrap wood, trying the dowel pins on the holes, and seeing what works better).- 2023 update: 1/8 inch is 3.175 mm, not 1.5 (or 1.5875) mm, which is 1/16 inch. I think I was looking at 1/16 inch at one point and got mixed up.
- Stop collar
- Maybe a drill guide? Basically the front part of a drill press, without a motor or a stand attached; it can be moved around on the work surface (an actual drill press wouldn't reach far enough into the plane of the trimmer).
- https://generaltools.com/36-37-precision-drill-guide-for-3-8-inch-or-1-2-inch-power-drills-portable-lightweight-folds-flat-for-storage
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wolfcraft-Portable-Multi-Angle-Drill-Guide-with-Drill-Chuck-4525404/303283380
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-DrillMate-Portable-Multi-Angle-Drill-Guide-with-3-8-in-Chuck-1318/206520394
- At least two of these have their own stop mechanism (like a drill press has), so a stop collar on the bit wouldn't be needed