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2007 F-150 Complete Brake Job — Interactive Step-by-Step Guide
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brake-job-guide.html
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</head>
<body>
<div class="container">
<!-- ════════ HEADER ════════ -->
<div class="header">
<h1>Complete Brake Job Guide</h1>
<div class="subtitle">Front &amp; Rear Rotors, Pads, Parking Brake Shoes, Bleed</div>
<div class="badge">2007 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4 &bull; 5.4L 3V &bull; 6-Lug &bull; 200k mi</div>
</div>
<!-- ════════ PROGRESS ════════ -->
<div class="progress-bar" id="progressBar">
<div class="label"><span id="progressText">0 / 0 steps</span><span id="progressPct">0%</span></div>
<div class="track"><div class="fill" id="progressFill" style="width:0%"></div></div>
</div>
<!-- ════════ NAV ════════ -->
<div class="nav" id="nav">
<button class="active" data-page="overview">Overview</button>
<button data-page="tools">Tools &amp; Parts</button>
<button data-page="prep">Prep</button>
<button data-page="front">Front Brakes</button>
<button data-page="rear">Rear Brakes</button>
<button data-page="parking">Parking Brake</button>
<button data-page="bleed">Bleed &amp; Test</button>
<button data-page="tips">Tips &amp; Tricks</button>
<button data-page="videos">Videos</button>
</div>
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: OVERVIEW ║ -->
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<div class="page active" id="page-overview">
<div class="card">
<h2>Job Overview</h2>
<p>Full brake overhaul: front and rear rotors, pads, parking brake shoes with hardware, and a full brake fluid bleed. Estimated time: <strong>4-6 hours</strong> for someone who's done brakes before, 6-8 if it's your first time on this truck.</p>
<h3>Torque Specs — Quick Reference</h3>
<div class="spec-grid">
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">150</div><div class="lbl">Lug Nuts (ft-lb)</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">148</div><div class="lbl">Front Bracket (ft-lb)</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">25</div><div class="lbl">Front Slide Pin (ft-lb)</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">24</div><div class="lbl">Rear Guide Pin (ft-lb)</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">85-95</div><div class="lbl">Rear Bracket (ft-lb)</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">13-18</div><div class="lbl">Bleeder Screws (ft-lb)</div></div>
</div>
<div class="alert alert-warn">
<strong>Rear Bracket Torque Note</strong>
Sources vary between 85 and 148 ft-lbs for the rear bracket. 85-95 ft-lbs is the most commonly cited value for 2004-2008. Cross-check with a Haynes/Chilton manual if you have one.
</div>
<h3>Socket Sizes — What You'll Actually Reach For</h3>
<div class="spec-grid">
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">21mm</div><div class="lbl">Lug Nuts</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">18mm</div><div class="lbl">Front Bracket</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">13mm</div><div class="lbl">Front Slide Pins</div></div>
<div class="spec-box"><div class="val">10mm</div><div class="lbl">Rear Caliper</div></div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Job Order</h2>
<p>Work one axle at a time. Always do the same side front+rear before moving to the other side so you have three wheels on the ground.</p>
<ol style="padding-left:20px; margin-top:8px;">
<li><strong>Prep</strong> — Gather tools, break lug nuts loose, lift truck</li>
<li><strong>Front driver side</strong> — Caliper, bracket, rotor, pads, reassemble</li>
<li><strong>Rear driver side</strong> — Caliper, bracket, parking brake shoes, rotor, pads, reassemble</li>
<li><strong>Front passenger side</strong> — Repeat front procedure</li>
<li><strong>Rear passenger side</strong> — Repeat rear procedure</li>
<li><strong>Bleed all four corners</strong> — RR &rarr; LR &rarr; RF &rarr; LF</li>
<li><strong>Test</strong> — Pump pedal, parking brake, low-speed test drive</li>
</ol>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-overview -->
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: TOOLS & PARTS ║ -->
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<div class="page" id="page-tools">
<div class="card">
<h2>Complete Tool Inventory</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:12px;">Check off tools as you gather them. All sockets should be <strong>6-point</strong> to avoid rounding bolt heads.</p>
<h3>Sockets &amp; Wrenches</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t1"><label for="t1">21mm socket — lug nuts<span class="detail">1/2" drive. Will also need a breaker bar or impact.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t2"><label for="t2">18mm socket — front caliper bracket bolts<span class="detail">1/2" drive, 6-point. These are 148 ft-lbs — you need leverage.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t3"><label for="t3">13mm socket — front caliper slide pin bolts<span class="detail">3/8" drive is fine. 25 ft-lbs.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t4"><label for="t4">10mm socket — rear caliper bolts<span class="detail">3/8" drive. 24 ft-lbs.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t5"><label for="t5">8mm socket or Allen key — bleeder screws<span class="detail">Some models use a small hex. Check yours before starting.</span></label></div>
<h3>Torque &amp; Leverage</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t6"><label for="t6">Torque wrench — 1/2" drive, 20-150 ft-lb range<span class="detail">Covers everything from slide pins to lug nuts.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t7"><label for="t7">1/2" breaker bar — 18"+ length<span class="detail">For breaking loose bracket bolts and lug nuts.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t8"><label for="t8">Cheater pipe or long handle extension<span class="detail">Optional but helpful for the 148 ft-lb front bracket bolts.</span></label></div>
<h3>Brake-Specific Tools</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t9"><label for="t9">Large C-clamp (6-8") — front piston compression<span class="detail">Use an old brake pad as a spacer between the clamp and piston.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t10"><label for="t10">Brake caliper piston wind-back tool<span class="detail">REQUIRED for rear calipers. A C-clamp will NOT work on the rears and can cause damage.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t11"><label for="t11">Brake spoon / star wheel adjuster tool<span class="detail">For the parking brake star wheel adjuster. A flat-head screwdriver works in a pinch.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t12"><label for="t12">Brake bleeding kit or clear vinyl tubing<span class="detail">3/16" ID tubing + a small bottle. Aquarium tubing works great.</span></label></div>
<h3>General Tools</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t13"><label for="t13">Floor jack + 2 jack stands (min 3-ton rated)<span class="detail">F-150 is heavy. Don't cheap out on jack stands.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t14"><label for="t14">Wheel chocks</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t15"><label for="t15">Ball-peen hammer + rubber/dead-blow mallet<span class="detail">For stuck rotors. The ball-peen strikes the rotor hat; the rubber mallet persuades things into place.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t16"><label for="t16">Wire brushes — steel and brass<span class="detail">Steel for the hub face, brass for caliper bracket pad contact points.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t17"><label for="t17">Pliers — needle-nose and channel-lock<span class="detail">For parking brake springs and clips.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t18"><label for="t18">Pry bar — 12-18"<span class="detail">Helpful for levering calipers off rotors and popping parking brake springs.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t19"><label for="t19">Bungee cords or zip ties (x4)<span class="detail">Hang calipers from the spring — NEVER let them dangle by the brake hose.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t20"><label for="t20">Drain pan<span class="detail">To catch brake fluid when bleeding.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t27"><label for="t27">2x M8-1.25 metric bolts, 2-3" long<span class="detail">Thread into the rotor push-off holes to break stuck rotors free. Cheap insurance — buy them in advance.</span></label></div>
<h3>Chemicals (From Your O'Reilly Order)</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t21"><label for="t21"><span class="part-tag">16PB-DS</span> PB B'laster (x2)<span class="detail">Soak all bolts 15 minutes before starting. Hit them the night before if you can.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t22"><label for="t22"><span class="part-tag">77134</span> Permatex Ceramic Brake Grease<span class="detail">For caliper slide pins, pad contact points on bracket, hub face.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t23"><label for="t23"><span class="part-tag">15309</span> CRC Brakleen<span class="detail">Clean new rotors (remove shipping oil), clean hub faces, clean everything.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t24"><label for="t24"><span class="part-tag">1330799</span> Blue Loctite 242<span class="detail">Front bracket bolts ONLY. Do not use on slide pins or rear caliper bolts.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t25"><label for="t25"><span class="part-tag">26189</span> Permatex Anti-Seize<span class="detail">Thin coat on hub face between lug studs. Prevents rotors from seizing on next time.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" id="t26"><label for="t26">Brake fluid — DOT 3 or DOT 4<span class="detail">You'll need 1-2 bottles for a full 4-corner bleed. DOT 3 and DOT 4 are compatible.</span></label></div>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Parts Inventory (O'Reilly Order)</h2>
<table>
<thead><tr><th>Part</th><th>Part #</th><th>Qty</th><th>Where Used</th></tr></thead>
<tbody>
<tr><td>StopTech Front Rotors</td><td class="mono">680180RGS</td><td>2</td><td>Front axle</td></tr>
<tr><td>StopTech Rear Rotors</td><td class="mono">680182RGS</td><td>2</td><td>Rear axle</td></tr>
<tr><td>StopTech Front Pads</td><td class="mono">SM1011</td><td>1 set</td><td>Front axle</td></tr>
<tr><td>StopTech Rear Pads</td><td class="mono">SC1012</td><td>1 set</td><td>Rear axle</td></tr>
<tr><td>Raybestos Parking Brake Shoes</td><td class="mono">752</td><td>1 set</td><td>Rear drums (inside rotors)</td></tr>
<tr><td>Carlson Parking Brake Hardware</td><td class="mono">H2300</td><td>1 kit</td><td>Rear drums</td></tr>
<tr><td>Centric Rear Brake Hoses</td><td class="mono">72120</td><td>2</td><td>Rear left + right</td></tr>
<tr><td>Raybestos Caliper Pin Boots</td><td class="mono">00482</td><td>8</td><td>All 4 calipers (2 per caliper)</td></tr>
<tr><td>PB B'laster Penetrant</td><td class="mono">16PB-DS</td><td>2</td><td>Everything rusty</td></tr>
<tr><td>Permatex Brake Grease</td><td class="mono">77134</td><td>1</td><td>Slide pins, pads, hub faces</td></tr>
<tr><td>CRC Brakleen</td><td class="mono">15309</td><td>1</td><td>Cleaning</td></tr>
<tr><td>Blue Loctite</td><td class="mono">1330799</td><td>1</td><td>Front bracket bolts</td></tr>
<tr><td>Permatex Anti-Seize</td><td class="mono">26189</td><td>1</td><td>Hub faces</td></tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-tools -->
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<!-- ║ PAGE: PREP ║ -->
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<div class="page" id="page-prep">
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">0</span> Preparation</h2>
<div class="alert alert-info">
<strong>The Night Before (Optional but Recommended)</strong>
Spray all caliper bracket bolts and bleeder screws with PB B'laster. Let it soak overnight. This will save you significant grief on a 200k-mile truck.
</div>
<h3>Safety First</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0a"><label for="s0a">Park on level ground. Transmission in Park, engine OFF, key out.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0b"><label for="s0b">Place wheel chocks behind BOTH rear tires (if starting with front) or in front of BOTH front tires.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0c"><label for="s0c">Release the parking brake.<span class="detail">The parking brake must be fully released before working on the rears. The e-brake lever engages the drum shoes inside the rear rotors.</span></label></div>
<h3>Break Lug Nuts Loose</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0d"><label for="s0d">Break all lug nuts loose 1/4 turn while the truck is still on the ground.<span class="detail">Use 21mm socket + breaker bar. Don't remove them — just crack them loose. The weight of the truck holds the wheel still.</span></label></div>
<h3>Lift the Truck</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0e"><label for="s0e">Jack up one side under the frame rail. Place jack stand under the axle or frame.<span class="detail">Work one side at a time. You want the other side on the ground for stability. Place the jack stand where the truck can't fall off it.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0f"><label for="s0f">Shake the truck to verify it's stable on the jack stand before getting under it.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0g"><label for="s0g">Remove the wheel. Set lug nuts somewhere they won't roll away.<span class="detail">Place the removed wheel under the frame as a backup safety measure.</span></label></div>
<h3>Prep the Hub Area</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s0h"><label for="s0h">Spray caliper bracket bolts, slide pins, and bleeder screws with PB B'laster.<span class="detail">Let it soak while you gather your parts and tools for this corner.</span></label></div>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-prep -->
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: FRONT BRAKES ║ -->
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<div class="page" id="page-front">
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">1</span> Front Brakes — Disassembly</h2>
<div class="alert alert-info">
<strong>Access Tip</strong>
Turn the steering wheel so the caliper faces OUT of the wheel well toward you. This gives way more room to work. Turn left for driver side, right for passenger side.
</div>
<h3>Remove the Caliper</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1a"><label for="s1a">Remove the 2 caliper slide pin bolts <span class="tool-tag">13mm</span><span class="detail">These are the inner bolts. 25 ft-lbs. Should come out relatively easy.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1b"><label for="s1b">Lift caliper off the rotor and hang it from the coil spring with a bungee cord.<span class="detail">NEVER let the caliper hang by the brake hose. The hose is the only thing connecting the caliper to the truck's hydraulic system. Damage it and you have no brakes.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-danger">
<strong>Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose!</strong>
This damages the internal lining and can cause a hidden failure. Always hang it from the spring or suspension with a bungee cord or wire.
</div>
<h3>Remove the Bracket</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1c"><label for="s1c">Remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts <span class="tool-tag">18mm</span><span class="detail">These are the big outer bolts. 148 ft-lbs from the factory. You'll need the breaker bar. May need a cheater pipe. If they won't budge, hit them with more PB B'laster and wait.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1d"><label for="s1d">Set the bracket aside. Note the position of old pads and hardware clips.<span class="detail">Take a phone photo before removing the old pads from the bracket. This is your reference for reassembly.</span></label></div>
<h3>Remove the Rotor</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1e"><label for="s1e">Pull the old rotor straight off the hub studs.<span class="detail">4x4 models use hubless rotors — there are no bearings to worry about. The rotor just slides off. If it doesn't...</span></label></div>
<details>
<summary>Rotor won't come off? Stuck Rotor Removal Guide</summary>
<div class="inner">
<ol style="padding-left:18px;">
<li><strong>Spray &amp; hammer:</strong> PB B'laster into the stud holes and around the hub pilot. Wait 10 min. Strike the rotor hat (center raised area) with a ball-peen hammer between the studs.</li>
<li><strong>Push-off bolts:</strong> Thread two M8-1.25 bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor hat. Tighten alternately while tapping with a hammer. The rotor should pop free.</li>
<li><strong>Heat (last resort):</strong> Propane torch on the hub pilot area to expand the pilot hole, then strike.</li>
</ol>
</div>
</details>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1f"><label for="s1f">Clean the hub face with a steel wire brush.<span class="detail">Get all the rust and scale off. This is critical — any debris between the hub and new rotor causes lateral runout (brake pulsation). Take your time here.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s1g"><label for="s1g">Apply thin coat of anti-seize <span class="part-tag">26189</span> to the hub face between the studs.<span class="detail">Thin like paint. Prevents the new rotor from seizing on. NEVER get anti-seize on the rotor friction surfaces, wheel studs, or lug nut seats.</span></label></div>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">2</span> Front Brakes — Reassembly</h2>
<h3>Install New Rotor</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2a"><label for="s2a">Clean the new rotor <span class="part-tag">680180RGS</span> with brake cleaner <span class="part-tag">15309</span> on BOTH sides.<span class="detail">New rotors have a protective oil coating. If you skip this, your pads will be contaminated immediately and you'll get noise and poor stopping.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2b"><label for="s2b">Slide new rotor onto the hub. Hand-thread 3 lug nuts to hold it in place.<span class="detail">This keeps the rotor flush against the hub while you work. Finger-tight is fine.</span></label></div>
<h3>Prep the Bracket</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2c"><label for="s2c">Clean old slide pins — wipe off all old grease with a rag.<span class="detail">Inspect the pins. If they're pitted, rusted, or bent, replace them. Slide pins are the #1 cause of uneven pad wear and brake noise.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2d"><label for="s2d">Replace caliper pin boots <span class="part-tag">00482</span> on the bracket.<span class="detail">Push out the old boots, clean the bores, push in the new boots.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2e"><label for="s2e">Apply brake grease <span class="part-tag">77134</span> to slide pins and reinstall into bracket bores.<span class="detail">Coat the pins generously. They should slide freely in and out with just finger pressure.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2f"><label for="s2f">Clean bracket pad contact surfaces (the rails where pads sit) with wire brush. Apply thin layer of brake grease.<span class="detail">Pads need to slide freely on these rails. Rust here causes pad binding and uneven wear.</span></label></div>
<h3>Install Bracket &amp; Pads</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2g"><label for="s2g">Install bracket. Apply Blue Loctite <span class="part-tag">1330799</span> to threads. Torque bracket bolts to <strong>148 ft-lbs</strong>. <span class="tool-tag">18mm</span><span class="detail">Blue Loctite is medium-strength thread locker. It prevents bolts from backing out but allows removal with hand tools. Do NOT use Red Loctite.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2h"><label for="s2h">Install new pad hardware clips into the bracket.<span class="detail">If your pads came with new clips (StopTech usually does), use them. The clips should snap firmly into place with a satisfying click.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2i"><label for="s2i">Install new pads <span class="part-tag">SM1011</span> into the bracket.<span class="detail">Inboard pad (piston side) has a metal clip that seats into the caliper piston. Outboard pad clips into the caliper housing. They are NOT interchangeable — check your photo reference.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-warn">
<strong>Pad Orientation Matters</strong>
The inboard and outboard pads are different. The inboard pad clips into the piston, the outboard clips into the caliper housing. If swapped, the pads will bind and drag. Check your reference photo.
</div>
<h3>Compress Piston &amp; Install Caliper</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2j"><label for="s2j">Compress the front piston using a C-clamp + old brake pad as spacer.<span class="detail">Place the old pad between the C-clamp and piston face. Tighten slowly. If the reservoir is full, crack the bleeder to relieve pressure, or siphon some fluid from the reservoir first.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2k"><label for="s2k">Slide caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket. Install slide pin bolts. Torque to <strong>25 ft-lbs</strong>. <span class="tool-tag">13mm</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2l"><label for="s2l">Remove the 3 temporary lug nuts from the rotor.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s2m"><label for="s2m">Spin the rotor by hand. Verify it turns freely with only light pad contact.<span class="detail">If the rotor drags or won't turn, something is wrong. Check pad installation, caliper pin alignment, and piston compression.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-success">
<strong>Front corner complete!</strong>
Repeat this entire procedure for the other front wheel. Remember to turn the steering wheel the opposite direction for access on the other side.
</div>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-front -->
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: REAR BRAKES ║ -->
<!-- ╚══════════════════════════════════════════════╝ -->
<div class="page" id="page-rear">
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">3</span> Rear Brakes — Disassembly</h2>
<div class="alert alert-danger">
<strong>CRITICAL: The rear calipers are different from the fronts!</strong>
The rear pistons screw in clockwise — you MUST use a brake caliper wind-back tool. A C-clamp WILL damage the internal parking brake actuator mechanism. Ford's workshop manual explicitly warns against using a C-clamp on the rears.
</div>
<h3>Retract Parking Brake Shoes FIRST</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3a"><label for="s3a">Verify the parking brake is fully released.<span class="detail">The e-brake pedal must be in the full up/released position. If the shoes are engaged, the rotor will not come off.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3b"><label for="s3b">Locate the rubber plug on the backing plate (below the axle). Remove it with a flat-head screwdriver.<span class="detail">This exposes the star wheel adjuster for the parking brake shoes.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3c"><label for="s3c">Use a brake spoon or flat screwdriver to turn the star wheel and retract the parking brake shoes.<span class="detail">Turn the star wheel to reduce shoe spread. You need the shoes fully retracted so the rotor can slide off over them.</span></label></div>
<h3>Remove the Caliper</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3d"><label for="s3d">Remove the 2 rear caliper guide pin bolts <span class="tool-tag">10mm</span><span class="detail">24 ft-lbs from factory. These are smaller than the fronts.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3e"><label for="s3e">Lift caliper off and hang it with a bungee cord. DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose.</label></div>
<h3>Remove the Bracket</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3f"><label for="s3f">Remove the 2 rear bracket bolts. Set bracket aside.<span class="detail">Torque is 85-95 ft-lbs (see overview note about conflicting specs).</span></label></div>
<h3>Remove the Rotor</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s3g"><label for="s3g">Pull the rear rotor off. The parking brake shoes should be retracted enough for it to clear.<span class="detail">If it won't come off: check that the parking brake is fully released and shoes are retracted. Then try the stuck rotor methods from the front brake section. The rear rotors also have M8-1.25 push-off bolt holes.</span></label></div>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">4</span> Rear Brakes — Parking Brake Shoes</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:12px;">With the rotor off, you now have access to the drum-in-hat parking brake assembly. Take a phone photo of the assembly before touching anything.</p>
<div class="alert alert-info">
<strong>Photo First!</strong>
The parking brake assembly has springs, clips, and levers that go together in a specific way. Take multiple photos from different angles before disassembly. You will thank yourself later.
</div>
<p>See the <strong>Parking Brake</strong> tab for the full parking brake shoe replacement procedure.</p>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">5</span> Rear Brakes — Reassembly</h2>
<h3>Install New Rotor</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5a"><label for="s5a">Clean the hub face with a wire brush and apply anti-seize.<span class="detail">Same as the fronts — clean, thin coat of anti-seize between the studs.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5b"><label for="s5b">Clean new rear rotor <span class="part-tag">680182RGS</span> with brake cleaner on both sides.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5c"><label for="s5c">Install rotor. Use 3 lug nuts finger-tight to hold it.</label></div>
<h3>Prep the Bracket</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5d"><label for="s5d">Clean slide pins, replace pin boots <span class="part-tag">00482</span>, grease and reinstall.<span class="detail">Same procedure as the fronts. Fresh grease on clean pins.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5e"><label for="s5e">Clean bracket pad rails with wire brush and apply brake grease.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5f"><label for="s5f">Install bracket. Torque bolts to <strong>85-95 ft-lbs</strong>.</label></div>
<h3>Install Pads</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5g"><label for="s5g">Install new rear pads <span class="part-tag">SC1012</span> into the bracket.<span class="detail">Rear pads: one pad snaps into the piston center, the other into the caliper housing. Same concept as the fronts but check orientation.</span></label></div>
<h3>Compress Rear Piston (WIND BACK)</h3>
<div class="alert alert-danger">
<strong>Do NOT use a C-clamp on the rear pistons!</strong>
The rear pistons must be SCREWED IN using a wind-back tool. Both driver and passenger sides turn CLOCKWISE. Maximum rotation torque: 133 lb-in (15 Nm) — exceed this and you damage the caliper internally.
</div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5h"><label for="s5h">Open the bleeder screw slightly to relieve hydraulic pressure.<span class="detail">Attach vinyl tubing to the bleeder to catch fluid. This makes the piston MUCH easier to push back. You'll bleed the system later anyway.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5i"><label for="s5i">Use the wind-back tool to screw the piston clockwise while pushing inward.<span class="detail">Both sides are clockwise. Go slow — you should feel the piston moving inward as you turn. If it's fighting you hard, make sure the bleeder is open.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5j"><label for="s5j">Close the bleeder screw once the piston is fully retracted. Torque to <strong>13-18 ft-lbs</strong>.</label></div>
<h3>Install Caliper</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5k"><label for="s5k">Slide caliper over pads and onto bracket. Install guide pin bolts. Torque to <strong>24 ft-lbs</strong>. <span class="tool-tag">10mm</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5l"><label for="s5l">Remove temporary lug nuts. Spin rotor — verify free rotation with light drag only.</label></div>
<h3>Adjust Parking Brake</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5m"><label for="s5m">Through the rubber plug hole, turn the star wheel adjuster to spread the shoes until you feel light drag on the rotor.<span class="detail">Target: 0.010" clearance. Bring the adjuster up until light drag, then back off slightly. Apply and release the parking brake pedal a few times, then re-check drag.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s5n"><label for="s5n">Reinstall the rubber plug in the backing plate.</label></div>
<div class="alert alert-success">
<strong>Rear corner complete!</strong>
Repeat the entire rear procedure on the other side.
</div>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-rear -->
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: PARKING BRAKE ║ -->
<!-- ╚══════════════════════════════════════════════╝ -->
<div class="page" id="page-parking">
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">P</span> Parking Brake Shoe Replacement</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:12px;">Drum-in-hat design — these are the small drum brake shoes inside the rear disc rotors. Only accessible with the rear rotors removed.</p>
<div class="alert alert-warn">
<strong>Take Photos Before Disassembly!</strong>
The springs and clips have a specific orientation. Photograph the assembly from multiple angles. Lay the old parts out in order as you remove them so you have a reference for installing the new hardware.
</div>
<h3>Remove Old Shoes &amp; Hardware</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp1"><label for="sp1">Note the position of all springs, clips, and the star wheel adjuster. Photo everything.<span class="detail">There's a primary shoe (thinner lining, toward the front) and secondary shoe (thicker lining, toward the rear). They are different.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp2"><label for="sp2">Remove the upper return spring using needle-nose pliers or a brake spring tool.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp3"><label for="sp3">Remove the hold-down springs and pins. Push in and turn 90 degrees to release.<span class="detail">There's one hold-down spring on each shoe. The pin goes through the backing plate from behind.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp4"><label for="sp4">Remove the lower return spring.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp5"><label for="sp5">Remove the adjuster assembly (star wheel). Note orientation — the star wheel faces the bottom.<span class="detail">The adjuster sits between the shoes at the bottom. Note which end is threaded and which direction the star wheel teeth face.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp6"><label for="sp6">Remove the shoes from the backing plate.</label></div>
<h3>Inspect &amp; Prep</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp7"><label for="sp7">Inspect the parking brake actuating lever for seizure.<span class="detail">These are notorious for rusting and sticking. If the lever is stuck, clamp one side in a vise, grab the other with vise-grips, spray WD-40, and work them apart. Wire brush clean after separation. This is the #1 cause of premature parking brake shoe wear.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp8"><label for="sp8">Clean the backing plate contact points (the 6 raised bumps where shoe edges rest).<span class="detail">Wire brush the bumps clean. These are the wear surfaces where the shoes ride.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp9"><label for="sp9">Apply silicone brake grease to all 6 backing plate contact points.<span class="detail">Use silicone-based grease ONLY, not petroleum-based. Petroleum grease will damage rubber components. Thin coat — just enough to lubricate.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp10"><label for="sp10">Clean and lubricate the star wheel adjuster threads.</label></div>
<h3>Install New Shoes &amp; Hardware <span class="part-tag">752</span> <span class="part-tag">H2300</span></h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp11"><label for="sp11">Install new shoes onto the backing plate.<span class="detail">Primary shoe (thinner lining) goes toward the front of the truck. Secondary shoe (thicker lining) goes toward the rear. Use your photos for reference.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp12"><label for="sp12">Install the hold-down springs and pins on both shoes.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp13"><label for="sp13">Install the star wheel adjuster between the shoes at the bottom.<span class="detail">Make sure the star wheel teeth face down/outward — they need to be accessible through the rubber plug hole.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp14"><label for="sp14">Connect the lower return spring.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp15"><label for="sp15">Connect the upper return spring.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="sp16"><label for="sp16">Fully retract the star wheel adjuster so shoes are at minimum spread.<span class="detail">The rotor needs to slip over the shoes. You'll adjust them outward after the rotor is installed.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-info">
<strong>Parking Brake Adjustment</strong>
After the rear rotor is installed, adjust the star wheel through the rubber plug hole until you get light drag, then apply and release the parking brake pedal several times. See Rear Brakes reassembly tab for full procedure.
</div>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Parking Brake Video Reference</h2>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPYSb0JReIg" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/WPYSb0JReIg/hqdefault.jpg" alt="Parking Brake Shoes 2004-2008 F-150" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">TRQ / 1A Auto — Parking Brake Shoes 2004-2008 F-150</div>
</a>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-parking -->
<!-- ╔══════════════════════════════════════════════╗ -->
<!-- ║ PAGE: BLEED & TEST ║ -->
<!-- ╚══════════════════════════════════════════════╝ -->
<div class="page" id="page-bleed">
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">6</span> Brake Bleeding</h2>
<div class="alert alert-danger">
<strong>Bleed Order Matters!</strong>
Always bleed from the farthest caliper from the master cylinder to the nearest:<br>
<strong>Right Rear &rarr; Left Rear &rarr; Right Front &rarr; Left Front</strong>
</div>
<h3>Setup</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6a"><label for="s6a">Top off the brake fluid reservoir under the hood with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.<span class="detail">The reservoir is on the driver side, bolted to the brake booster. Fill to the MAX line. You MUST keep checking this between corners — if it runs dry, you've introduced air into the master cylinder and have to start over.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6b"><label for="s6b">Attach clear vinyl tubing to the first bleeder screw (Right Rear). Submerge the other end in a bottle with some brake fluid.<span class="detail">The fluid in the bottle prevents air from being sucked back in. Aquarium tubing works perfectly. A water bottle with a hole in the cap works as a catch bottle.</span></label></div>
<h3>Bleed Each Corner</h3>
<p style="font-size:0.9rem;margin-bottom:8px;">Repeat this for each corner in order: <strong>RR &rarr; LR &rarr; RF &rarr; LF</strong></p>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6c"><label for="s6c"><strong>Right Rear:</strong> Have a helper slowly press the brake pedal to the floor. Open the bleeder. Fluid/air comes out. Close the bleeder. THEN release the pedal. Repeat 5-8 times until only clean fluid with NO bubbles.<span class="detail">DO NOT pump the pedal with the bleeder open — this creates turbulence and traps air. One slow, deliberate stroke at a time.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6d"><label for="s6d">Check reservoir level. Top off if needed.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6e"><label for="s6e"><strong>Left Rear:</strong> Repeat the same bleed procedure.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6f"><label for="s6f">Check reservoir level. Top off if needed.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6g"><label for="s6g"><strong>Right Front:</strong> Repeat the same bleed procedure.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6h"><label for="s6h">Check reservoir level. Top off if needed.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6i"><label for="s6i"><strong>Left Front:</strong> Repeat the same bleed procedure.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s6j"><label for="s6j">Final reservoir check. Fill to MAX line. Reinstall the reservoir cap.</label></div>
<details>
<summary>Bleeding Solo? One-Person Method</summary>
<div class="inner">
<ol style="padding-left:18px;">
<li>Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw.</li>
<li>Submerge the other end in a bottle with a couple inches of brake fluid.</li>
<li>Open the bleeder screw about 1/4 turn.</li>
<li>Go to the cab and pump the brake pedal slowly 5-6 times. Hold it on the last press.</li>
<li>Go back and close the bleeder. Check fluid level.</li>
<li>Repeat until no bubbles appear in the tube.</li>
</ol>
<p style="margin-top:8px;font-size:0.85rem;color:var(--gray-500);">The submerged tube prevents air from being sucked back in when you release the pedal. It's slower than two-person but works fine. Just keep checking the reservoir.</p>
</div>
</details>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2><span class="num">7</span> Final Assembly &amp; Testing</h2>
<h3>Wheels On</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7a"><label for="s7a">Install all wheels. Hand-thread lug nuts to snug.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7b"><label for="s7b">Lower the truck off the jack stands.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7c"><label for="s7c">Torque all lug nuts to <strong>150 ft-lbs</strong> in a star pattern. <span class="tool-tag">21mm</span><span class="detail">Go around twice — once to the target, once to verify. Star pattern prevents warping the rotor.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-danger">
<strong>CRITICAL: Pump the Brake Pedal BEFORE Moving the Truck!</strong>
The pistons are fully retracted. You will have ZERO brakes until you pump the pedal several times to push the pistons out against the new pads. Start the engine and pump the pedal until you feel firm resistance. Do this BEFORE releasing the parking brake or moving the truck.
</div>
<h3>System Check</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7d"><label for="s7d">Engine running: pump brake pedal 15-20 times until FIRM. Should not sink to the floor.<span class="detail">If the pedal feels spongy or sinks slowly, there's still air in the system. Re-bleed.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7e"><label for="s7e">Apply and release the parking brake several times to self-adjust the rear shoes.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7f"><label for="s7f">Check for leaks — look at all 4 calipers and all brake hose connections for any drips.</label></div>
<h3>Test Drive — Bedding-In Procedure</h3>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7g"><label for="s7g">Drive at walking speed in the driveway. Test brakes. They should stop the truck.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7h"><label for="s7h">Drive around the neighborhood at 25 mph. Make 5-6 moderate stops (not hard braking).<span class="detail">You're bedding in the pads to the rotors. This deposits an even layer of pad material on the rotor surface.</span></label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7i"><label for="s7i">Perform 3-4 stops from 35 mph with moderate braking pressure.</label></div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7j"><label for="s7j">Drive for 5 minutes without braking to cool the brakes down.<span class="detail">Do NOT come to a complete stop and hold the brakes while the pads are hot — this can transfer pad material unevenly and cause brake pulsation. Keep rolling gently.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-warn">
<strong>Avoid Hard Braking for 200 Miles</strong>
The pads need ~200 miles to fully bed in. During this period, avoid hard stops, riding the brakes down hills, and towing. The brakes will feel progressively better over the first few hundred miles.
</div>
<div class="step"><input type="checkbox" data-step id="s7k"><label for="s7k">Re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.<span class="detail">New rotors can settle slightly. Re-torque to 150 ft-lbs in star pattern.</span></label></div>
<div class="alert alert-success">
<strong>Brake job complete!</strong>
Re-torque lug nuts again at 100 miles. Enjoy your new brakes.
</div>
</div>
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<!-- ║ PAGE: TIPS & TRICKS ║ -->
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<div class="page" id="page-tips">
<div class="card">
<h2>2004-2008 F-150 Specific Tips &amp; Tricks</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:12px;">Collected from F-150 forums, shop manuals, and experienced mechanics. These are the things that catch people on this specific truck.</p>
<details open>
<summary>4x4 Advantage: Hubless Rotors</summary>
<div class="inner">
Your 4x4 model uses <strong>hubless rotors</strong> — the rotor slides straight off the hub studs. No pressed wheel bearings, no castle nut, no bearing race to worry about. The 2WD models are much more involved. This is a significant advantage — take the win.
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Front Caliper Access: Use the Steering Wheel</summary>
<div class="inner">
Turn the steering wheel so the caliper faces <strong>out of the wheel well</strong> toward you. Driver side = turn wheel left. Passenger side = turn wheel right. This gives you dramatically more room to work and you can see what you're doing.
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>The 18mm Bracket Bolts Will Fight You</summary>
<div class="inner">
The front bracket bolts are torqued to 148 ft-lbs and have likely been there for 200k miles. They will not come out easy.
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>Soak with PB B'laster the night before if possible.</li>
<li>Use a breaker bar — don't try to break them loose with a ratchet.</li>
<li>A cheater pipe (a section of steel pipe over the breaker bar handle) gives extra leverage. Even a 2-foot pipe makes a huge difference.</li>
<li>6-point sockets ONLY. 12-point sockets will round these bolts and ruin your day.</li>
<li>If one starts to round, STOP. Use a bolt extractor socket (the spiral-fluted kind) before it gets worse.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Rear Pistons: Clockwise Wind-Back — Both Sides</summary>
<div class="inner">
This trips people up. On many vehicles, the left and right rear pistons turn opposite directions. <strong>On the 2004-2008 F-150, BOTH sides turn clockwise.</strong> If you're pushing hard and it's not moving, make sure:
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>The bleeder screw is cracked open (this helps enormously).</li>
<li>The parking brake is fully released.</li>
<li>You are pushing IN while turning — it's both at the same time.</li>
<li>Maximum torque: 133 lb-in (15 Nm). If you exceed this, you'll damage the caliper.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Stuck Rotor? M8-1.25 Push-Off Bolts</summary>
<div class="inner">
Both front and rear rotors have two threaded holes in the hat (the raised center section). These are <strong>M8-1.25 thread pitch</strong> and are specifically designed for pushing the rotor off the hub.
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>Buy 2x M8-1.25 bolts, 2-3" long, BEFORE you start. They're a couple bucks at any hardware store.</li>
<li>Thread them in evenly, alternating 1/4 turn at a time, while tapping the rotor hat with a hammer.</li>
<li>The rotor will pop free with a satisfying crack. Much better than beating on it.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Parking Brake Actuator Seizure</summary>
<div class="inner">
If your parking brake shoes are worn (they shouldn't be — they only engage when the truck is stopped), the actuating lever is almost certainly seized.
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>The lever mechanism rusts and sticks in the engaged position.</li>
<li>This causes constant drag and premature shoe wear.</li>
<li>Fix: clamp one side in a vise, grab the other with vise-grips, soak in WD-40, work apart.</li>
<li>Wire brush everything clean before reinstalling.</li>
<li>If the shoes look fine, the actuator is probably fine. Don't fix what isn't broken.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Anti-Seize: Where to Use It (and Where NOT To)</summary>
<div class="inner">
<table>
<thead><tr><th>Location</th><th>Apply?</th><th>Notes</th></tr></thead>
<tbody>
<tr><td>Hub face (between studs)</td><td style="color:var(--green);font-weight:600;">Yes</td><td>Thin coat. Prevents rotor from seizing to hub.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Hub pilot ring</td><td style="color:var(--green);font-weight:600;">Yes</td><td>The lip the rotor centers on. Thin coat.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Caliper bracket bolt threads</td><td style="color:var(--red);font-weight:600;">No</td><td>Use Blue Loctite on the fronts. Nothing on the rears.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wheel studs</td><td style="color:var(--red);font-weight:600;">No</td><td>Alters torque reading. Torque specs assume dry threads.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lug nut seats</td><td style="color:var(--red);font-weight:600;">No</td><td>Same reason — torque specs assume dry.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rotor friction surface</td><td style="color:var(--red);font-weight:600;">NEVER</td><td>Obvious but worth stating.</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bleeder screws</td><td style="color:var(--green);font-weight:600;">Yes</td><td>Light coat on threads. Makes them easy to open next time.</td></tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Pad Orientation: Inboard vs Outboard</summary>
<div class="inner">
The front and rear pads each have a distinct inboard and outboard pad. They are NOT interchangeable.
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li><strong>Inboard pad (piston side):</strong> Has a metal clip that seats into the caliper piston face.</li>
<li><strong>Outboard pad (outside):</strong> Has clips that snap onto the caliper housing.</li>
<li>If swapped, the pads will bind, drag, and wear unevenly.</li>
<li>When in doubt, check the StopTech instructions in the box — they include a diagram.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Clean New Rotors — This Is Not Optional</summary>
<div class="inner">
New rotors ship with a protective oil coating to prevent rust during storage. If you install a new rotor without cleaning it first, the oil contaminates the new pads immediately. You'll get brake noise, poor stopping, and possibly glazed pads.
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>Spray both friction surfaces generously with brake cleaner.</li>
<li>Wipe with clean paper towels (not shop rags — they leave lint).</li>
<li>Repeat until the paper towel comes away clean — no dark residue.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>Brake Fluid Reservoir: Don't Let It Run Dry</summary>
<div class="inner">
During bleeding, the master cylinder reservoir can empty faster than you think, especially if you opened bleeders during piston compression. If the reservoir runs dry:
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>Air enters the master cylinder.</li>
<li>You now have to bench bleed the master cylinder or bleed the entire system from scratch.</li>
<li><strong>Check the reservoir between EVERY corner.</strong></li>
<li>If you're solo bleeding, check it after every 3-4 pedal pumps.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
<details>
<summary>After 45 mph Vibration/Shudder</summary>
<div class="inner">
If you notice intermittent vibration from the rear at 45+ mph after the brake job, the parking brake may be remaining partially engaged. Check:
<ul style="padding-left:18px;margin-top:6px;">
<li>Parking brake actuator lever freedom — make sure it moves freely.</li>
<li>Star wheel adjuster — back it off slightly.</li>
<li>Check that the rotor spins freely by hand with only very light drag.</li>
</ul>
</div>
</details>
</div>
</div><!-- /page-tips -->
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<!-- ║ PAGE: VIDEOS ║ -->
<!-- ╚══════════════════════════════════════════════╝ -->
<div class="page" id="page-videos">
<div class="card">
<h2>Front Brakes — 2004-2008 F-150</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:8px;">1A Auto — Complete front brake replacement walkthrough for your exact truck generation.</p>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tCGxLkyfWk" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/4tCGxLkyfWk/hqdefault.jpg" alt="Front Brakes 04-08 Ford F-150" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">Watch: How To Replace Front Brakes 04-08 Ford F-150</div>
</a>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Rear Brakes — 2004-2008 F-150</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:8px;">TRQ / 1A Auto — Rear brake replacement including rear caliper wind-back demonstration.</p>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JedTUmkegjE" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/JedTUmkegjE/hqdefault.jpg" alt="Rear Brakes 2004-08 Ford F-150" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">Watch: How to Replace Rear Brakes 2004-08 Ford F-150</div>
</a>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Parking Brake Shoes — 2004-2008 F-150</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:8px;">TRQ / 1A Auto — Drum-in-hat parking brake shoe replacement. This is the trickiest part of the whole job.</p>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPYSb0JReIg" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/WPYSb0JReIg/hqdefault.jpg" alt="Parking Brake Shoes 2004-2008 Ford F-150" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">Watch: Parking Brake Shoes 2004-2008 Ford F-150</div>
</a>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>Complete Brake Job Guide (General)</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:8px;">ChrisFix — Excellent general brake replacement tutorial. Great if you've never done brakes before.</p>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RQ9UabOIPg" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/6RQ9UabOIPg/hqdefault.jpg" alt="How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors - ChrisFix" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">Watch: ChrisFix — Complete Brake Pad &amp; Rotor Replacement</div>
</a>
</div>
<div class="card">
<h2>How to Bleed Brakes By Yourself</h2>
<p style="color:var(--gray-500);font-size:0.85rem;margin-bottom:8px;">1A Auto — One-person brake bleeding technique using the tube-in-a-bottle method.</p>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag-Q_lP0dOk" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="video-thumb">
<img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/ag-Q_lP0dOk/hqdefault.jpg" alt="How to Bleed your Brakes by Yourself" loading="lazy">
<div class="play-btn"></div>
<div class="play-label">Watch: How to Bleed Brakes By Yourself — 1A Auto</div>
</a>
</div>
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