multi-pitch climbing transitions

multi-pitch climbing transitions

general notes
-------------

always reply to commands
    this let's the other climber know you heard him
    e.g. climber calls "on belay" but belayer isn't ready yet, can't call "belay is on"
    instead of waiting silently and climber calling out "on belay" again and again
    say "thanks" as acknowledgment

always include the other climber's name in the command
    don't want to be taken off belay while climbing because the guy next to you shouted

always make transitions following add, test, subtract
    example, follower arrives at belay station
    add: follower cloves in to masterpoint
    test: follower test weights the connection to make sure it will hold
    subtract: follower removes belay device that was previously holding him

try to work in parallel
    if your partner is doing something, you probably should be too


climb to climb transition
-------------------------

leader arrives at belay station
    if building a trad anchor, place first piece
    should be most bomber piece

place draw
    if bolted belay, look at the climb, which way is it going to go when leaving the anchor?
    place the draw on that side so when the leader leaves he can clip that draw
    can also take that into account when building a trad anchor
        but it's not as important as best possible gear placements

clip draw
    avoids a big fall
    still stay on belay, not tied into anything yet

build anchor
    2 bolts: double length sling with overhand on a bight or quad
    3 bolts or trad anchor: cordelette with overhand or figure 8 on a bight
    many possible ways, these are some simple examples
    squeeze check all lockers
        lockers are not necessary here, but if you use them, check them

locking 'biner through master point, clove hitch in
    lock the 'biner
    test weight
    choose position carefully
        take into account which direction the route goes
        and who is leading the next pitch

call "off belay"
    listen for "thanks", repeat if necessary
    while waiting for "belay is off" continue working

place belay device
    preferably in guide mode
    locking 'biner through shelf
        or masterpoint, but shelf makes for less clutter at masterpoint
        lock 'biner

unclip draw
    attached to anchor, draw is no longer necessary and makes pulling rope more difficult
    but leave the draw in place, next leader will clip it as first piece

locking 'biner through master point for follower
    follower will clove into 'biner after arriving
    this is optional when swapping leads, see below

hear "belay is off"
    call "thanks" as acknowledgment

pull up rope
    if there is sufficient space, flake on the ground
        make sure not to flake where the next climber needs to stand
    otherwise make lap coils
        if swapping leads, coil big to small to avoid tangles
        else coil small to big because the rope will be flipped to other climber

hear "that's me"
    call "thanks" as acknowledgement

place rope in belay device
    lock 'biner
    pull climber side to make sure it auto locks (remember, guide mode)
    pull belayer side to make sure it pulls through

squeeze test all locking 'biners
    if there's a locker waiting for follower to clove into, that can remain unlocked

call "belay is on"
    wait for "thanks" acknowledgment
    wait while follower breaks down anchor

hear "climbing"
    call "climb on"

belay
    be sure to continue rope management
    autolock means you can eat, drink, put on a jacket, take selfies
    just keep pulling out slack

follower arrives at station
    make sure the leader for next pitch is on the correct side

high five

if swapping leads and using an autolocking belay device (guide mode, NOT grigri)
    climber 1 lead last pitch, climber 2 followed last pitch and will lead next pitch
    climber 2 is already attached to anchor with autolocking belay device
    climber 1 gives climber 2 any gear needed for next pitch
        climber 2 will already have gear from last anchor and cleaning pitch
        hand over remaining draws, pro, maybe some slings or 'biners or ...
    climber 2 gives climber 1 his belay device
    climber 1 puts climber 2 on indirect belay (from harness, normal lead belay) (add)
        lock 'biner
        buddy check (test)
    climber 2 removes guide mode belay device (subtract)
        preferably in two steps
            remove 'biner used for rope, place it back in the wire loop
            remove device
            less likely to drop this way
        climber 2 keeps the belay device
        remember to keep it or you'll reach the next station without a belay device!
        but also know the munter in case that happens
    climber 2 is now on lead belay
    never had to clove, why?
        had auto locking device
        added indirect belay (belay from harness)
        subtracted auto locking device

if not swapping leads
    follower cloves in
        lock 'biner
    remove belay device
        preferably in two steps
            remove 'biner used for rope, place it back in the wire loop
            remove device
            less likely to drop this way
    follower gives leader gear from cleaning anchor and route
    flip rope
    follower puts leader on indirect belay (from harness, normal lead belay)
        lock 'biner
        buddy check
    leader uncloves
        remove 'biner

buddy check, "on belay", "belay is on", "climbing", "climb on"

leader clips draw already hanging from the anchor

belayer waits for "off belay"
    reply "thanks" for acknowledgment

take leader off belay

call "belay is off"
    don't call until rope is complete free
    wait for "thanks" or see the rope being pulled up
    repeat if necessary

get ready to climb
    put on shoes, take off jacket, put away food, etc.

when rope pulls taut call "that's me"

wait for "belay is on"
    reply "thanks" in acknowledgment

unclove, break down anchor
    rack gear neatly

call "climbing"
    wait for "climb on"

climb and clean
    rack gear neatly


climb to rappel transition
-------------------------

leader is cloved in at belay station, belaying

follower arrives at belay station
    no need to clove in due to autolocking belay device
    and about to go clip in with sling

high five

both climbers clip into masterpoint
    if not already, girth hitch double length sling to tie in points
    tie overhand or overhand on a bight in sling
        will be used for extended rappel
        overhand on a bight shortens sling more
        there are other ways, these are two easy examples
    clip locking 'biner through end of sling to masterpoint
        lock 'biner
    buddy check
    test weight

follower unties from climbing rope
    because that side of the rope is on top of flake or lap coils

thread end of rope through rap rings
    tie stopper knot
    probably double overhand

follower pulls rope through
    flake or coil neatly depending on next move

as follower pulls rope
    leader unties from rope
    leader ties stopper knot in his end

throw rope or create saddle bags
    if throwing rope call "rope" listen for response
    multiple times if busy route or in doubt

both climbers place double strand rappel devices on rope
    place locking 'biner through midpoint of sling
        if overhand, make sure 'biner goes through both top and bottom loops
        if overhand on a bight, put 'biner through bight
    lock 'biner
    buddy check

first descender places autoblock/friction knot
    connected directly to belay loop with locking 'biner
    lock 'biner
    second doesn't need autoblock as first will provide fireman's belay

both climbers move rappel devices high enough to test weight
    test weight

both climbers remove locking 'biners from masterpoint and clip to belay loop
    this along with the way the sling is tied provides redundancy
    lock 'biner

break down anchor
    rack gear cleanly
    could have second descender do this as first descends

as first descends second is locked in place due to weight on ropes
    also makes both ropes independently fixed
    i.e. the rope cannot be pulled through the rap rings
    means that if you forgot a knot on one end the first descender is still safe
        but still knot both ends anyway!!!

first descender arrives at next rappel station
    still on rappel

build anchor
    same as climbing anchor
    special case, bolted station, bolts connected together with chains
        can skip anchor and clip directly to bolt hanger
        why?
        redundant due to chains
        but let's keep this simple for now, build an anchor, it takes all of 20 seconds

unclip locking 'biner from belay loop and clip masterpoint
    lock 'biner
    test weight

remove rappel device

grab rope to provide fireman's belay

call "off rappel"
    wait for "rappelling", repeat if necessary

second descender arrives at anchor, clips to masterpoint
    lock 'biner
    test weight
    remove rappel device


rappel to rappel transition
---------------------------

both climbers are clipped to masterpoint with slings, rope is still hanging from last rap station

if rope is hanging past station pull both sides up

unknot one side, pass through rap rings, reknot

unknot other side

pull rope down and through rap rings
    stop at halfway mark

reknot the side that was just pulled down

coil/flake/create saddlebags

continue as above