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Back at the theater in Tripoli, it was the year 1885, the first theater in the Middle East. | |
The vendor woman, an old Alawite, told us that once they had rolled the red carpet all the | |
way from the harbor to the theater for Oum Kalthoum to perform at the glorious Ottoman building. | |
There was nothing but rubble to be seen now, and the sound of diggers and hammers. | |
The Ingea Theater was no more. Now I recalled, it was Rabih Mroué who had asked Catherine Deneuve | |
in that film, "You wanted to see, I also want to see but I can't seem to. Do you see that?" | |
And the truth is that neither of us would see anything, but diggers, hammers and rubble. | |
It wasn't only the theater, but the city and the whole country, there was nothing to see but rubble. | |
At some point I wanted to ask him if maybe the whole world was made of rubble now. | |
As we drove away, he told me: "You know, we, the Lebanese and the Jews, we are perhaps the first | |
peoples to have advanced from the idea of nationalism." I nodded and woke up from the still quiet of | |
the highway and heard at last the delicate voice. | |
"Do you see that?" He asked me. "The constellations on the sky stood steeply on their heads, | |
all the stars had made an about-turn, but the moon, buried under the featherbed of clouds | |
which were lit by its unseen presence, seemed still to have before her an endless journey and, | |
absorbed in her complicated heavenly procedures, did not think of dawn." | |
Does the sky look the same everywhere? I didn't ask that question, if only because my vague | |
knowledge of science provided the answer. "Do you remember when I first saw you?" I asked him. | |
And he was thinking the same thing I was thinking. "I shall never forget that luminous journey | |
on that brightest of winter nights. The colored map of the heavens expanded into an immense dome, | |
on which there loomed fantastic lands, oceans and seas, marked with the lines of stellar currents | |
and eddies, with the brilliant steaks of heavenly geography." He didn't answer my question and | |
insisted on driving into the village that suddenly carved itself out before the entrance of Batroun. |
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