ebikie-conversion.txt

All right, guys.
John DaNerd out here.
This is a video which hopefully will help a lot of you guys out there.
If you're out there thinking about tackling converting your own bike into an E-bike, you've
made a great decision.
Your life will never be the same.
This is going to be the most defining moment in your life.
You know, if you've had children, if you've been married, forget all of that.
This is going to be the new chapter in your life.
I'm grateful you that chose to watch this video to get you into the new era.
So, I'm gonna try to do a soup to branded install.
Caveats, of course obviously all bikes are different.
No bike is the same.
This one is going to be different than your bike, 80-90% the same.
If you're doing a mid-drive install.
That's what I'm doing hereimy going by will installing a mid-drive.
If you're new to this channel, if you don't have no idea of any of my videos or anything,
I'm Johnny Nerd Out.
I'm a professional E BIKE builder, converter, I've been doing this since 2017.
Probably done about 200 of these.
I get calls all the time of people saying, hey, I can't...
I don't live anywhere near you.
I don't live anywhere near anybody that can do this.
Can you help me?
Guide me through?
So, this is for you guys, if you don't live anywhere near, or if you're like I wanna tackle
it myself.
Let's get into it.
Feel free to ask me questions, check out the comments below.
I'm sure some people will be adding some tips that maybe I forgot or left out.
I'm just gonna go through this and do it and give you my thoughts along the way.
So, let's just get into it.
Hopefully, you've seen my other video.
I have another video.
I'll probably put a link up here on the tools you're gonna need to do this.
These are the specialty tools.
You're gonna need general tools.
I recommend getting a torque wrench.
You don't need it to do this, but it's up to you.
How perfect do you wanna get this installed?
It's totally up to you.
You can eyeball stuff.
I know some people are like it has to be to that newton meter of torque for everything.
Yes, you should.
Ideally, yes, you should, but some people don't have the means to get this, so keep
that in consideration.
You can use these in different order.
I'm just doing it in this order that I see fit.
Sometimes, I do things in different orders.
Some people like to do things in different orders.
There's no right or wrong answer for most of this stuff.
Some things you want to do in a certain order, but I'll just give you my kind of things.
First thing you wanna do, I take the pedal wrench.
I have this on a stand right now.
This one might be better to do it off of a stand because you're gonna want putting a
lot of torque on this.
Sometimes, these are not very snug, so you don't need a lot of pressure.
This one was not.
As I said, not a lot of pressure on it.
Some of these, if it's an old bike, this one I think is pretty much new so it's probably
not gonna have a lot of torque on a lot of this stuff.
If you have a bike that's 30 years old, it's just gonna be rust filled and you're gonna
need to probably step on it and get in there.
This is a pedal wrench.
It's just a 15 millimeter wrench, but you can see how thin that is.
You don't need one of these in most cases.
You can just get a 15 millimeter wrench.
Sometimes you need a really thin profile one and this one's nice because it's got the rubberized
grip, so that's why I do this one.
Drive side is lefty loosey.
Non-drive side is the opposite.
It's righty.
And this thing was like hand tight.
This thing is coming off so easy.
So it's gonna go the same way.
If you're facing the rear of it, drive side is lefty loosey, non-drive side is righty
tighty to take it off.
The pedal's off.
Let's put those off to the side.
This usually is going to be an 8-millimeter Allen to take off your crank arms.
And you may have a bolt on there that's like 14 millimeters usually.
Most of the time it's an 8-millimeter.
And these should be pretty snug, but nothing crazy.
So we got that off.
Now this opens up.
Now this is where your crank puller comes in.
Get that seated in there nice and tight.
Usually you want to get a wrench.
You don't need to go crazy on it, but get that in there pretty snug.
This one's got a lot of bite in it, so I don't need to go too crazy on it.
I'm gonna use the pedal wrench.
Okay.
And that just pops off.
Get that off.
Take this off.
Put the old parts over here.
Now I'm just gonna go and do the other side.
Working in a bedroom here, so it's really tight.
It's not ideal.
I'ma take the crank puller, just put it on the other side.
Make sure it's got a decent amount of teeth or decent amount of threads grabbing.
Crank pullers are one of those things you don't want to cheap out on.
That's why I pretty much only carry the Park Tool.
I only buy a premium crank puller.
Don't cheap out.
Don't get something that's not a name brand.
Get a Pedro's or something like that.
Do not get a cheap Chinese knock off of a crank puller.
And I don't recommend buying one of those kits that's like 30-piece bike toolkit for
thirty bucks.
It's going to come with crappy parts in it and you're probably going to strip out your
crank arm.
You're going to strip this out and it's going to be stuck on your bike.
And then you're going to have to go take it to a bike shop or use an angle grinder if
you have one.
Do it off.
I've done that before.
I made a video on it.
Ok, I'm going to leave this bike on the ground here cause I'm going to take off the bottom
bracket now.
And you're going to need a bottom bracket remover tool.
You can see it's splined and just going to go right in there.
You always want to go towards the bike take it off.
So if you're on the drive side you're gonna go clockwise.
If you're on the non-drive side you're going to go counter-clockwise and that's going to
remove this.
And these should be on there pretty tight.
Ok and then this just pulls out, same thing on the other side.
So this one had a weird, had an unusual bottom bracket.
You can see, normally it would have two cartridges on here.
Every bike is different.
Most bikes are not going to be like this.
Ok so this opens up the bottom bracket shell.
So here's the bottom bracket shell.
Got the motor, it's a BBS HD.
You can see this just slides in, like so, just like so.
And then one thing to be cautious about.
See there's a little bit of gap there, and the motor's hitting the chainstay, so that's
not good.
You don't want that, you don't want to tighten this in.
If that's, if there's a space there, you're not always going to have a space, you just
want to take a look and see if there is a space there.
Which there is, so you don't want to tighten that in.
Otherwise you're put put pressure on this, and all the mechanisms in there.
So you want, you want that to just be slight.
That's exaggerated but you just want there to be some room in there.
So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to put some spacers in there.
Just bottom bracket, corcus at spacers.
Okay, so we're going to be put some spacers in here.
I'm going to start with two.
And there's one ... yeah, that's still there.
I'm going to put one more in.
And put a third in.
Yeah!
That's perfect.
Okay, so I put in three little spacers in there.
And you can see, there's just a little bit of a gap there.
And that's what you want.
And then we'll discuss chain line in a second.
What are all these wires?
Oh no.
This goes to your motor, this goes to your battery.
Some motors have 6 volts out which powers lights.
Which is nice because you control it from nogle your display.
This is your speedometer pick up and this is your gear shift sensor.
And this is your main wiring harness, that's going to run up to your screen.
Brake cut-offs and throttle.
Now here's where I like to get everything kind of plotted out.
If you want to do a dry run.
I'm going to run the cables up.
See, so I'm going to open this one, open the bag up.
Get your main cable out and then just goes right here.
Plug it in carefully, you don't want to bend any pins in here.
So you want to make sure these two lines are lining up and then just gently put them in.
Don't want to bend them or you know go straight line in.
Constant steady pressure and you put them in.
I've bent these before, it sucks.
Best good news is if you make any mistake on this, just order another cable, it's not
the end of the world.
So try not to do it.
You don't want to have to do that.
Because you're excited about your new bike and you want to get this bad boy up and running.
So like what I want to do is I'm running this cable.
I like to run it underneath here.
You could see that.
So I'm going to run it.
You don't want this to get pinched by this frame so you got to be careful of that.
So if you can see that, there's a little clear encounter or that daylight.
So I'm going to try to run it through there.
Little bit of pressure on the cable is okay but you don't want it to get pinched because
that's just metal in there.
Those wires and cables are just metal.
Metal doesn't like to be kinked or bent.
Little bend, that's okay but you know, hard bends, no they don't like that.
Ok so at this point I will install the display on where it's going to go.
Sorry if I'm blocking anything.
I'm doing my best here people.
It's cramped.
This is the 500c display.
I really like this display.
It's small, it's color, it's easy to install.
You want to leave room for your throttle so I'm just going to kind of, put that right
about there because then my throttle can go right there.
Snug it up a little bit, you don't need to go crazy.
It's not probably where it's going to live but it might.
Okay, then we can run up this cable, connect it green to green.
Same thing with these connectors, just line them up and put them
in straight, you don't want to bend these pins.
There's a throttle, so to put the throttle on, we're going to take the handgrips off
and the brakes.
Man, most of them are with a five millimeter.
The brakes, at least, are usually five mil.
Just loosen that up a little bit.
Handgrips, some of these have an allen on it to keep it on there, this one does.
This is a three millimeter, so now this will come off.
These are nice because they're easy to remove.
A lot of times, they're just on by suction so you have to spray rubbing alcohol in there
or if you have an air compressor, blow it in there, or even simple grain.
I'll make another video on hacks on how to remove that because if you're just starting
off and you've only done one, if this is your first one, it could be a pain.
We're going to remove the front brake, we've got this, and then we're going to want to
get the cable out because we're going to replace this with a new mechanical one.
You just want to line these little barrel adjusters up so that they spin independently
from each other, so you want to make sure they're lined up together.
I don't know if you can see that, I'll try to zoom in, but you want to get them assumed
up so they're all together so you can see the cable from here all the way until it goes
into the housing.
Then what I'm going to do is I'm just going to pull on it like that and then look it,
it just slides out like that and now I have this and this.
I can take my new trusty, dusty fancy bright cut-offs that come with a sensor in it.
Take the little cap off of there.
I'll get this ready to go, but first I want to put on my throttle.
This has got a dropper seat post so I'm just going to leave this.
This is kind of where it becomes a little bit more of an art form because you've got
to see how do you want it to be set up and how do you want it to look.
Does the throttle going to interfere with anything?
I could just drive around it like this.
Yeah, it's going to hit there.
That's annoying.
Maybe I want to put it there, which is what I want to do.
Throttle is going on.
Dropper seat post.
And then we're going to take our, brake lever goes on last, and we can put our hand grip on.
You want to line up your brake levers so that your hands are like straight so when your
hands are on the handlebars, you're gripping your brake levers, your wrists are straight.
You don't want to have it like this because then you're putting a lot of undue strain
on your wrists.
Or like this, it's going to hurt.
You want to have it straight.
So when your riding your hands are straight and your hands are on your brake levers.
Does that make, that make sense?
Hopefully it does.
Let's pretend I'm riding.
I'm just going to stand on it and I'm gonna hand, put my hands on it, look at my wrists.
I think about there is level.
So I'm going to tighten that up.
Okay, and I'm just going to feed in, I'm going to feed this brake cable into the new brake
lever, just the opposite of how I did it before.
So that's in.
It's super loose but fine we're going to adjust it later.
Now we've got some more connectors here we could tie into our main wire harness.
So, let's find one that's connect but there's only for the, it's kind of hard to get this
confused because there's only one option really.
There all color coded.
Just put that in there.
Put the brake lever in here.
Then what I like to do too is afterwards, I may disconnect this and reconnect them as
I do my cable routing, my cable management.
You want that to look as clean and nice as possible.
So I'm just going to move this stuff all over on the handlebars, get it to where I want.
I want to check that the throttle, when you hit the throttle it doesn't hit anything.
Because this one has got a dropper seatpost lever on it and you don't want it to hit that.
That's good right there.
I'm going to tighten this bad boy down.
Throttles you don't want to tighten down very hard.
Five newton meters is what it calls for.
Okay, so this left side is pretty much done.
Now we've got the right side here.
Hopefully you guys can see that.
If yours has a all-in-one brake and shifting mechanism, like this will all be one unit,
you don't need to replace this.
You just put an inline brake cutoff sensor right in here and you don't replace it.
This one doesn't, they're separate so it's nice.
So I'm just going to do the same thing.
I'm going to remove this with a 3mm here.
I'm going to remove this with a 5mm and I'm going to replace this with the one that it
– with the cutoff.
It's got the brake lever loose.
I'm just going to again line this up so I can see the whole thing.
Pull this.
Oh this one won't go.
Sometimes this happens, you can't pull it all the way through.
Okay, so you've got to loosen up your rear.
So you just got to find your rear cable.
Take a 5mm.
Loosen that up.
Now this thing should come out easy.
Look at that.
So that's what you want.
You want these to be lined up and lined up with this.
So there's part here and part here.
You want to line up this.
So now look at that it just pops right out.
And then this just pops out, and now you're done.
Let's see if I could do it again one-handed putting it back in...installing the new one.
Okay, so we got the new one here.
So I got this.
Open it up, you can see just like that.
Just going to make it sit like that.
And you want these to line up.
Just like that.
Come on get in there.
Okay so you want it to line up just like that.
That just pops in.
And you're going to tighten this up.
I like to loosen the bottom one up
and then tighten everything together.
So now its going to look like that.
So that cable is not going to pop out and this is tight.
Alright, so you want all this to be tight.
This is for adjusting on the fly.
So you want this to be tight when you first start off.
You want to do all your adjusting back there.
Same with shifting.
Now we've got this tight.
We'll just put this on the handlebar like so.
So I'm going to tighten that down to get our angle aligned.
See, I want it to be just like that.
So I'll just find that and tighten it down.
I'll just put on the hand grip so I know where it's going.
Now I'm just moving the shifter back over,
I just pushed everything all the way up
against that hand grip.
So now that's pretty much good.
Now I can plug this in, and I want to kind of wire this
so that it runs along with some other wire,
so I'm gonna zip tie all these wires together
I'm going to try to use the existing cables
that are on the bike so it looks clean.
So that's all plugged in.
I've got my throttle, two brake cutoffs, and display,
it's all in there, so now we kind of know
the length that we need to play with.
I like to keep this pretty tight.
I don't want to have excess cabling up here,
I want it to all be down underneath the motor.
So I'm gonna find, okay, that's about
the tightness we want.
I'm just gonna run it, and I'm gonna make sure
I'm just gonna pull all the excess cabling out
through the bottom of the motor.
And this is totally personal preference,
you may want to have your bundle up there,
maybe you want this, you know,
you want this free, you don't want
the excess cabling under there.
It's totally up to you, if you do a lot of off-roading
maybe that's important, you're like,
I want nothing that can get snagged down here,
I'd rather have it all rat's nest up here than down here.
Totally personal preference, it's your e-bike,
your custom e-bike, make it however you want it
so this is just how I like to do it
so now that I got that pretty tight
and it's ran under there, cool, I like that.
Now we can mount the battery,
so I'm gonna use these two holes here.
I'm gonna take this off.
Before I lock in this motor, I like to have
all the cables ran through it.
And this bike is a little unusual too
because you can see the cable stays are up here,
not ideal for an e-bike conversion.
You like to have them on the underside
so then you could hide the cables.
I don't know why they ran them up here but they did.
So we got our battery.
Mounts the battery to the frame,
so we're going to go into our bag,
find our key.
We're going to unlock the battery from the plate,
we just need the plate for right now.
I like to set this up, I like to just dry fit it.
I want it to be as low as possible.
I want it to have it as low as possible.
You don't want to have it up here,
you want to have a slow gravity as possible.
I got a couple things I'm dealing here,
so I'll probably be able to go about this low.
Okay, got those lined up.
I'm going to take my three millimeter,
tighten these down.
Not going to go crazy tight because
I want to see what it looks like.
So I'm just going to get them a little snug.
Okay.
I always like to make sure the battery's off
when I'm doing this stuff.
Okay, so let's just see.
Okay, it looks pretty good.
Let's see if I can go down a little bit lower,
but if not, I'm not worried.
Okay, and actually this one,
these cables are making this battery
not sit perfectly flush.
So it's causing it to go up.
So what I'm going to do,
I'm going to move these cables
so that I get a nice clean looking bike.
So I'm just going to move these
off to the side a little bit.
There we go.
Battery's on.
That's good with me.
So now we got this cable,
I'm just gonna connect these.
I'm going to do the same thing.
I'm going to show you guys what I'm talking about here.
We've got our battery cable here.
And I almost want to be mindful of these other cables.
So, I'm going to feed this down.
And I want to feed it underneath here.
And so then you just want to make sure
have this motor pivoted all the way forward.
But you want to make sure it's not pinching
any of these two cables,
these electrical cables I just put there.
That looks good.
You want to make sure that they're kind of
flowing kind of freely.
And there's no noticeable pinches.
It's okay if they're making contact.
You just don't want them getting pinched.
You take your lock ring kit.
One side has got grooves on it that are external.
One's got grooves that go inside.
We want the external grooves to go against our bike.
We want those to bite into our frame.
So I'm going to just put that on here like so.
And then you can see there's a gap here.
We're going to want to put spacers in there.
We don't want to leave that like that,
otherwise this is just going to get bent
and it's not going to really bite as well as it can.
So I am going to use...
Sometimes Buffet gives you these longer screws with it.
Sometimes they don't.
Sometimes they're benevolent and sometimes they're not.
Sometimes they give you these spacers.
Sometimes they don't.
So I'm going to go ahead and put these spacers in.
And I like to do it outside of the bike,
it's a little bit easier.
Put upside down, put the spacers on it.
This is where I wish I had a whole camera crew.
Okay, so you'd see.
And those are five millimeters.
I like to tighten down these little two black bolts first.
Just get them a little bit,
it's probably too much
because I'm going to need something on the grip
onto that one.
I need, I need to bite into that.
Loosen this up just a little bit.
All right, hopefully you guys can see
a little bit better of what I'm doing here now.
So I got these two bolts in first.
Take that off, now we can put on
our main lock ring
which goes on there.
Put a little bit of thread lock,
little bit of Loctite on here.
It just keeps it from vibrating.
You don't have to do this,
but it's just one of those things,
it makes it a little bit nicer.
So you want to find,
should be a little direction.
Sometimes these are hard to read,
but there's a directional on here.
You want to go 50 to 60 newton meters.
Honestly, I've never heard of anybody
over-tightening these things.
So, tighten it as much as you can,
and you can either use this premium installed tool,
or there's a universal lock ring tool,
it uses for the outside and the inside.
This one is a little more convenient.
If you're only gonna do like one or two,
this one's fine.
Then, you could use this and a rubber mallet.
Just go ahead and go like that
and just keep pressure on it
and just, you know, smack it.
You wanna get this thing on there real tight.
Okay, this should be on there nice and secure.
If you're using this, I recommend using a rubber mallet,
getting it here, and then just really
like getting it on there tight.
Like I said, you really can't over-tighten these things.
And then, same thing, this outer lock ring goes on.
You use the other side to just tighten it down.
Now, we've got this whole thing under here
looking nice and gross.
So, we're gonna try to just...
Let's get these wires,
connect the battery, make sure the battery's off.
And then, just connect those two.
Now, we're gonna connect the speedometer pickup,
go under your bag.
This is your speedometer pickup, if you can see that.
Just plugs into here and then tighten that down.
And then, you're gonna run this.
Here's a little...
This is what it goes into.
This sticks to the inside of the chain stay here.
I'll take a little picture here.
Okay.
So, we got this situated like this.
We wanna put this little magnet in.
Be careful because there are three screws in there.
Set this black one aside.
Do not lose it, it is tiny.
Now, you're gonna find a spoke.
I like to find the one that comes out closest to me
and just this little magnetic pickup sits in there,
sits in the spoke, and then this screws on.
And then, you're gonna need your T20 Torx
with a security bit.
Just tighten that up
and you wanna spin it so it's facing the non-drive side.
And then just kinda tighten it down.
And now, this is, you wanna put this up here.
You don't wanna put this too close to the rim.
I like to put it in like, maybe right about here.
I'll tell you why in a second.
Cause this has to sit here
and I like to be able to run this cable along here.
And I like to find a cable that I can run it along
so it doesn't scrape the tire or anything.
And this is perfect.
There's a wire here.
So I'm just gonna zip tie it all along here
so that it sits along here.
If you could ever find an existing cable or wire
that's already on the bike
try to use that and zip tie it to it
cause then it keeps it looking clean.
Now I wanna find out, I'm gonna rotate the tire
see how far away it is when this is zip tied on.
This has got a sticky tape,
it's just you peel this off
and it just kinda sticks just a little bit
just so you can work with it.
And you want that to be pretty close.
I want that to be a little bit closer.
So, I am going to adjust this.
You can see that comes out,
I can pull that all the way out.
I just want it to come out a little bit right there.
And I'm gonna put that screw right in there
and that's gonna hold it right where I want it.
So I'll get that screw you got kept in a safe place,
put it in there, tighten it down
with a number two Phillips,
tighten it until it stops moving.
Now get two zip ties,
I like to feed them through here, get them ready.
Peel off this adhesive backing
and it should be able to hold it
while you work with it, hopefully.
And then when you stick it you can kinda see,
yeah, it still is about a centimeter away.
That'll work.
All right.
Zip tie it.
I like to try to hide where the zip tie meets.
Just kinda hide it underneath.
You don't wanna see it.
The more things that you could hide, the better.
It'll make it look a little bit cleaner.
And every bike is different.
Some things you're gonna be able to
make it look super clean.
Some of them, they're just, you do the best you can.
Okay, so that's on there.
Take your wire cutter, snip off as close.
You wanna get a clean, flush cut wire cutter
so it could get right up in there.
Okay, and so now we've got all this excess cable.
I'm gonna try to run it along here.
I'm gonna cut that.
Get rid of that one.
Get a bunch of zip ties.
I use so many zip ties in this part
when I'm doing my cable management.
Oh man, I go through so many.
I'll zip tie something, and then I'll decide
ah, I don't like the way that looks,
undo them all, try it another way.
Okay, I like that way, and then you just gotta go through
and add a whole bunch of zip ties.
The more you add, the cleaner it looks.
Like if I add a bunch of here,
it'll keep those wires real tight together.
I like to just zip tie.
You don't want any of these wires to be moving,
so I just zip tie it.
Okay, you want all the wires to be stationary, not moving.
Okay, so that's good, we got that, we got that.
I'm not going to install the gear shift sensor on this one.
Check out another video if you wanna see how to do that.
I'll put up a video on just how to install
the gear shift sensor.
And then, from here, I like to make sure,
let's go do some cable management up here, same thing.
It's just, it's an art.
Just do your own.
Make it look nice.
See, there's existing cables here,
so I'm just gonna zip tie it all to here.
Make that look all nice.
And you're gonna have to undo some cables and redo cables,
cause you're gonna find that,
oh, yeah, this one's running kind of wonky.
I'm gonna need a little bit more slack.
Good, and you know, turn your handlebars.
Make sure that you got enough slack,
so when you're turning, you're not ripping stuff out.
Okay, and then from here on out is just zip tying.
Zip tying.
It does help if you sing songs while you do this
or have music playing.
If you don't have, if you can't afford a radio,
just sing to yourself.
And just doing a bunch of zip ties.
And then just from here, yeah, up here,
I like to take the throttle cable,
break shift sensor cable.
Like right now that looks gross.
I don't know if you can see how gross that is.
I don't know if I have HD on the grossness.
But just bunch them together, zip tie it,
and just invest in zip ties.
And then just follow them down.
Just look how much cleaner that's lookin' already,
and I'll do the same thing over here.
This is one of the one things
where you see a lot of amateur bikes,
people who made the bikes themselves,
cable management is just out of control,
and it's like, just spend five minutes.
Zip tie it all, make it look nice,
and it'll look like you've paid somebody to do it.
Plus if we're a group of DIYers,
we want our bikes to look good
so that people are like, oh, I wanna do that
instead of buying all those crappy pre-made bikes.
Cause with this bike, with this custom bike,
this is a way better bike
than what you could buy in the store.
Even if you wanna buy like a $8,000 specialized,
spec-wise, this bike is way better.
This is like almost 1,000 watt-hour battery.
This is a 1,000 watt motor.
At peak this is putting out like 1,700 watts.
Performance-wise, this is way better
than any bike that you can buy that's street legal.
And this, depending on your, you know, legality,
this may or may not be legal on where you live.
So be mindful of that.
If you're trying to be legal, you know
unless you live on like BLM land
or you're taking it strictly off road O.H.V places.
This, this motor may not be legal to where you live.
So just be mindful of that.
But even a 750 watt motor
which is pretty much legal everywhere,
you know except for maybe like some national parks
or something like that.
You're gonna get a way better bike for way less money.
This bike probably costs a quarter of like a specialized.
And I know this bike is nothing like a specialized bike,
but if you got a specialized bike frame to start with
and then decked it out with this
through $1,500 of battery and motor
and all like you know, the mechanical accessories,
you would have a way better bike
than what they're selling
for like 7000-8000 dollars if not more.
But if that's what you want,
if you want that aesthetic look,
like yeah, that's what you're paying for.
But I'm just a huge fan of DIY.
I feel like this was 20 years ago
when people were building their own PCs
cause it was half the price
and you get a way better performing PC
than buying one at Office Max.
This is what this is like.
This is the same reincarnation of that.
Building your own is way better and way cheaper
than going and buying one that's premade.
From here on out, you just gotta put your crank arms on.
They're labeled, R.
If you're sitting on the bike,
it goes on R, that's drive side.
You want to put your chainring on first.
I'm gonna go ahead and flip this bike around.
You know, obviously you want to cut,
you want to cut all of these off
cause that looks gross.
And when you are done with all this,
I like to take just spiral cable wrap
and go through and do that.
It just makes it look one more step nicer.
Just looks like it's cohesive.
Okay, and now we're going to put on the chainring
and you can see I didn't most of this install
without using that bike stand.
You don't totally need one.
If your bike has a kickstand,
you might be just fine.
This is not ideal.
Usually I work in the shop and I'm doing this,
but it was too cramped
and I needed to have better lighting and all that, so.
You wanna find you chain ring
and depending on which one you want,
you go with a lecky.
Check out my video on chain rings,
you know, to find out what you need.
If you're having chain line issue,
if your chain line is too far away,
too out of the box away from the bike,
you might need a lecky to offset that
and you're going to take
you can see it for this HD,
there are five holes.
Let's go ahead and find them,
line them up
and then take four millimeter.
K, I've got that one.
Like good.
Put the chain back on.
And a good way to size your chain
if you're putting a new chain ring on,
which you probably are
you're gonna wanna resize your chain.
You may actually need to replace your chain
if it's not the right size
and if it's old and gross
it might be a good time to just replace your chain anyways.
Now that you're adding a motor onto this,
you wanna have a good working chain,
you wanna be able to go into your tallest gear,
your lowest gear, your biggest gear,
however you wanna call it.
You wanna be able to go into that
and just have this thing be pretty tight.
You just wanna have it a little bit of play.
You don't want it to be so tight
that it's like grinding
and you're not able to do anything
but you also don't want it to be like this.
It's not in the biggest gear right now so it's fine.
Let's see if we can get it into the biggest gear.
Let's put some crank arms on here.
So, let's find R.
Here's R, so we're gonna put that on there
and then we're gonna go into our bag of hardware find these.
You could also reuse your old ones if you want
and then we're going to use
eight millimeter.
You don't have to use high end
eight millimeter for this one.
I do recommend getting something with leverage though.
This is the one I sometimes use for little things,
you can see, you're not gonna get leverage on this.
This is just, you're not getting leverage that way.
So if you could find something that has leverage.
It's gonna make your life easier.
You wanna talk this down pretty good.
Put our pedals back on, pedal wrench.
Alright, okay, you could see,
I'm in the second to lowest gear.
This thing is stretched out.
I need to add more, this stock chain is not gonna cut it.
So I need to replace this chain.
And then just to talk about chain line a little bit more,
you could see, I don't know if you can see,
but you want this to be as straight as possible with that.
So if I put a different chain ring on here,
it would probably be, the teeth would be to about here.
Which would move everything over,
which is gonna cause this to jump off a lot.
It's gonna cause teleshifting issues,
especially the chain staying on in your lowest gears.
And adding a lecky chain ring has that small,
has that unique tooth profile.
They're big and then little.
Which fit into the grooves of this chain.
So it grips onto it really well.
So if you're ever having chain issues
like falling off or not grip,
get one of those.
And it might take care of all your problems.
They're really good at just,
like having sticky hands on something.
It just grips onto it.
Not to mention the benefits of changing your chain line.
Which if you're having that problem,
this might also take care of it.
Depending on which one you get,
you wanna get, I think, the 42-46
have a good offset, they go in.
But if you get like a 28, something like that,
it's not gonna move in.
So lastly, I am going to show you
how to bundle up your bulge down there.
What I like to do is just kind of
see how everything is.
Get them all organized.
And kind of pull them out.
So I kinda, gotta like this.
See, it looks kinda nice like that.
I wanna go ahead and throw some zip ties around there.
And I'm not gonna go crazy with this.
I'm just gonna throw like, one or two.
Okay, so now it's gonna kind of hold it like that.
I'm gonna just kind of,
you wanna get it, fold it up,
you're gonna wanna play with it,
see how many times you can fold it.
It's kinda like origami.
Fold it.
So that it gets up.
You don't wanna pinch any cables.
So you gotta be mindful of the cables
and then the connections.
So maybe something like that,
and then I might, yeah,
so if I zip tie it like this,
zip tie it like that,
I can twist it, I can kinda bend it up a little bit,
push it up against here,
and I can zip tie this.
I can find something around here,
points to anchor it.
This is different for every bike.
Sometimes they just naturally,
fold up and those just sit nicely,
just naturally.
You don't have to do anything.
Some of them you really gotta work at
and kinda get it up there.
So that's, depending on your bike,
I don't have the greatest advice for that one.
Just do what looks nice.
You just don't want it to be loose.
You don't want it to be rubbing against the tire,
you don't want it to hang down too low
cause that's gonna snag on things.
So just, and just zip tie a bunch.
You want to get all loose cables.
Tight, so just zip tie everything down there.
And then, yeah, when you're done done,
you think you're done, just go through.
I'll clean this up again.
That's pretty much the entire install.
The rest is just fine tuning your bike.
You wanna make sure that it's shifting right now
after you have this.
I'm not gonna go into gear shifting on this,
check out another video for that.
Adjusting your brakes, same thing.
But other than that this thing is pretty much
ready to roll, got everything connected,
you got it looking nice, hopefully this helps you guys out.
And if you need help, you need links to stuff,
I got all the tools, check out my website.
I have an all you can order toolkit.
I'll probably have different trim levels
if you just want to get the basic one.
Like you just want to get it done
or if you want to get it done and done
with no hassles, you want to get all the premium tools
and you want to have these.
I'll have that listed there as well.
Cool and check out the comments below.
I'm sure some of you guys are going to have
some tips and tricks that I left out
or, you know, for specific bikes that may help you.
So, all right, thanks in advance guys.
See you later.