For 3d printed stuff like cases, boxes and a-likes:
- Socket Head ISO 4762 / DIN 912 (Stainless Steel) M3 10/16/20mm.
- PROS:
- These lengths are by far the most common/useful. Any other length can be compensated using screw bosses.
- Heads don't wear easily so they can be re-used heavily and withstand oxidation.
- Powertool friendly.
- Mostly no need for nuts/drilling when using self-tapping holes (https://github.com/gregsaun/maker_cheatsheet/blob/master/3d_printing/sizes_petg.md#self-tapping-hole).
- PCB mounting holes usually fit them
- CONS:
- Not that commonly available
- Not the cheapest
For light non-structural/heavy wood furniture:
- Flat Countersunk Head Phillips (Brass) M3/M5 20/30/40mm
- PROS
- Widely available
- Cheap
- Sturdy/affordable furniture with 10/20mm plywood.
- CONS
- Not for outdoors
- Needs drilling
- Needs proper bits or you will eventually damage the heads.
For modular/heavier structural furniture:
- Hex Socket Button Head ISO 7380 (Steel) M5 8mm + Slot Nuts
- PROS:
- Combined with v/t-slot aluminum profiles these are an excelent and flexible way to build re-usable racks/enclosures/rigs of any kind
- You have a local provider (https://www.ratrig.com/)
- CONS:
- Not Cheap
For aluminum tubing/plates:
- Self-Drilling Pan Head (Zinc) M3 10mm/30mm
- PROS:
- amazingly convientent for quick assemblies, no need to drill!
- CONS:
- you'll mess up several times before learning to use them
- not the cheapest
- not that commonly available