*scratch*.el

(defun my-count-maps (keymap depth)
  (let ((count 0))
    (cl-loop for touple in (cdr keymap)
             ;; touple == (27 keymap (9 . ispell-complete-word))
             do
             (progn
               (if (eq (car-safe (cdr-safe touple)) 'keymap)
                   ;; descent into sub keymap
                   (setq count (+ count
                                  (my-count-maps (cdr touple) (1+ depth))))
                 ;; else condition
                 (if (characterp (car-safe touple))
                     (progn 
                       (setq count (1+ count))
                       (message "Map: %s%s %s" (make-string depth (string-to-char "-")) (char-to-string (car touple)) (cdr touple)))
                   (message "not character keymap %s" touple)))
                 ;; (message "touple: %s" (car-safe touple))
               ))
    ;; return value
    count))

(message "total: %d" (my-count-maps org-mode-map 0))