theodric · April 27, 2017 15:33
diff --git a/VW NB 1.8t timing belt notes b/VW NB 1.8t timing belt notes
 * A jack with a load spreader on the oilpan is very handy, as opposed to a topside engine support, since you need to raise and lower the engine so often between operations. 
 * If you put a dot of paint on the outside edge of every tooth of the old timing belt that is between your alignment marks, and then transfer all of that to the new belt, you can be certain that the new belt is properly aligned and has not slipped during installation.
 * Install the timing belt before installing the hydraulic tensioner, because it allows you to have the lever controlling the eccentric of the tensioner pulley all the way down, giving you enough slack to easily get the belt on. Don't get confused by looking at DIYs for Audi 1.8t and VW 2.0 engines-- they use a different sort of tensioner pulley that has to be rotated into tension with a pin tool.
 Once you get the belt on, rotate the lever controlling the eccentric of the tensioner pulley as far upward as you can get it by hand (within reason, Mister Hulk), then tie a piece of wire or strong cord around the fork of the lever and hook the other end to something strong-looking, like the intake manifold. This helps keep the lever/fork out of your way, and also keeps the belt tensed, which keeps it from getting bonked out of timing while you're messing around with installing the tensioner and motor mount and moving the engine up and down.
 * The half of the motor mount that bolts to the cylinder block has to be set, but not bolted, roughly into position before the tensioner is installed. You'll have to wiggle it around considerably as you install the tensioner, but it does not clear after the tensioner is in place, so make sure you drop it in first and then work the tensioner around it.
 * Slide the upper left-hand-side bolt (facing passenger side of car) into the cylinder block motor mount before setting the motor mount in, because once the tensioner is installed you will be unable to get the motor mount back into a position in which you can install the bolt.
 * The easiest way to get the tensioner on is to lower the engine enough that you can see the tensioner's lower bolt hole through the wheel well. If you put the top bolt in first, it can be a nightmare getting the lower hole aligned since it likes to stick behind the flange protruding around the crank sprocket.
 * Jam something between the crank sprocket and the block to keep the timing belt from slipping off the sprocket while you're pre-tensioning the outside edge of the belt.
 * It's a tight fit, but it *is possible* to get a full-sized 2-foot-long 1/2" drive torque wrench in topside to tighten the top cylinder block motor mount bolts. Raising and lowering the engine may be needed to get enough space, and a deep-well socket is recommended for the front bolt. The bottom bolt can be done through the wheel well by lowering the engine enough that your extensions clear. Careful not to torque the engine all the way off your jack!
	* A jack with a load spreader on the oilpan is very handy, as opposed to a topside engine support, since you need to raise and lower the engine so often between operations.
	* If you put a dot of paint on the outside edge of every tooth of the old timing belt that is between your alignment marks, and then transfer all of that to the new belt, you can be certain that the new belt is properly aligned and has not slipped during installation.
	* Install the timing belt before installing the hydraulic tensioner, because it allows you to have the lever controlling the eccentric of the tensioner pulley all the way down, giving you enough slack to easily get the belt on. Don't get confused by looking at DIYs for Audi 1.8t and VW 2.0 engines-- they use a different sort of tensioner pulley that has to be rotated into tension with a pin tool.
	Once you get the belt on, rotate the lever controlling the eccentric of the tensioner pulley as far upward as you can get it by hand (within reason, Mister Hulk), then tie a piece of wire or strong cord around the fork of the lever and hook the other end to something strong-looking, like the intake manifold. This helps keep the lever/fork out of your way, and also keeps the belt tensed, which keeps it from getting bonked out of timing while you're messing around with installing the tensioner and motor mount and moving the engine up and down.
	* The half of the motor mount that bolts to the cylinder block has to be set, but not bolted, roughly into position before the tensioner is installed. You'll have to wiggle it around considerably as you install the tensioner, but it does not clear after the tensioner is in place, so make sure you drop it in first and then work the tensioner around it.
	* Slide the upper left-hand-side bolt (facing passenger side of car) into the cylinder block motor mount before setting the motor mount in, because once the tensioner is installed you will be unable to get the motor mount back into a position in which you can install the bolt.
	* The easiest way to get the tensioner on is to lower the engine enough that you can see the tensioner's lower bolt hole through the wheel well. If you put the top bolt in first, it can be a nightmare getting the lower hole aligned since it likes to stick behind the flange protruding around the crank sprocket.
	* Jam something between the crank sprocket and the block to keep the timing belt from slipping off the sprocket while you're pre-tensioning the outside edge of the belt.
	* It's a tight fit, but it is possible to get a full-sized 2-foot-long 1/2" drive torque wrench in topside to tighten the top cylinder block motor mount bolts. Raising and lowering the engine may be needed to get enough space, and a deep-well socket is recommended for the front bolt. The bottom bolt can be done through the wheel well by lowering the engine enough that your extensions clear. Careful not to torque the engine all the way off your jack!