This is a write-up of debugging a zebrad mainnet initial sync that wedged repeatedly at ~42% on otherwise perfectly-spec'd hardware. The summary up front: it's a real upstream bug ([ZcashFoundation/zebra#5709][issue]) and the ZEBRA_SYNC__CHECKPOINT_VERIFY_CONCURRENCY_LIMIT knob (NOT the two knobs the name implies you'd reach for) is the fix that actually moves the needle.
If you're hitting the same symptom, scroll to "What actually worked." If you want the diagnostic walk, read on.