To improve collaboration this guide is now available on GitHub.
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Save nicinabox/3582fc89470a3f4efc9ed194f12fabfb to your computer and use it in GitHub Desktop.
Can't open device: The serial port you specified isn't the one the controller is using.
How do I fix this issue? I'm on Mac
What if I accidently soldered one TRRS jack to the top and the other to the bottom? Is there any hope for me? Should I jump them the same way on both sides or should I jump them based on the side that the TRRS jack is placed on? I attempted to take the jack off with a solder sucker to no avail.
@JustinG721
Pretty sure it need to be soldered as you see it, on the same side of the Jack. I made the same mistake, I used the desolder pump to remove it, took a couple of tries to get it all, I really had to create a seal to get all the solder out. It was tricky and the jack needed a little wiggling, but I manged it. Maybe give it another go?
This is a heads-up to any future readers
While this guide does work to explain the build process for the Let's Split keyboard, I recommend viewing the updated guide linked at the top of the page. The difference that made me notice that this guide is out-of-date is the wiring for the RGB underglow. In this section, there is no reason to wire both sides of the LED strip to the VCC and GND-- using either the unused jumper pads (or the jumpers themselves) will work. Additionally, though there may be a reason behind this, the guide here defines the number of LEDs as "10" but only shows 8 being wired. There may be other differences but those two stood out.
@tybenz - I had a similar issue on Linux so this may not work for you, but my solution was to run the avrdude command separately with sudo. I think the issue is that the make command wasn't capitalizing the portion after /dev/tty (in my case, "ACM1"). I copied the .hex file to my keymap folder, reset my pro-micro manually, then quickly ran the "extended" avrdude command: sudo avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P /dev/ttyACM1 -c avr109 -U flash:w:lets_split_rev2_custom.hex
Sorry everyone! I didn't realize people were still coming here after the new guide was setup. Here's the updated guide!
@rednerrus - They are plate-mounted. You can tell because if they were PCB-mounted switches, on the third picture (under the "Connect Jumpers" section) there would be some white plastic poking through the holes next to each switch. (If you look at the picture, just below where it says "D18" on the PCB, there is a small hole. That is one of the two holes where the plastic for PCB-mounted switches would poke through)
If you need a better explanation, just let me know 👍