(Climbing) Strategy for bouldering competitions 👍

bouldering_competition_strategy.md

Strategy for Bouldering Competitions

This gist gives a high level overview of strategy and tips that I have been advised to use in bouldering competitions.

Food

• Carb up meal before.
• Simple sugars (raisins or sports drinks) 30-60 minutes before, and every hour within competition.
• Caffeine before start (beware of jitters).

Route Prep

• Arrive 30 minutes before.
• Look at every problem.
• Categorise into easy/medium/hard.
• Note problems which you think you can flash.
• Note problems that need 20-30 minutes of work.
• Note problems which are too difficult.
• Note type of problem (slab, cave etc).
• Note type of holds.
• Note length of problem.
• Note if problem requires lots of friction on holds to complete.

Route Order

• Warm up on easiest routes.
• Move on to easiest flashable medium route.
• Continue onto each flashable medium route.
• Then finish on harder climbs that need 20-30 minutes of work.

Efficiency

• Minimize attempts.
• Rest!
• Scout as much beta as possible for medium and hard routes before starting, to assure flash and also save energy.
• Avoid 45° or cave climbs unless you excel at these types of climbs, as it trains too much energy.
• Leave difficult slab climbs until the end.
• Attempt longer routes at the start after having warmed up properly.